If there’s just no grip left on the screw, it might be necessary to drill out its head in order to remove whatever it’s holding in place (a pickguard or tuner for instance). Learn how to drill worn or stripped screw heads for removal.
Check it out…
The (possibly) weird, but (definitely) good method for adjusting your pickup pole screws…
If you've got adjustable pole-pieces on your pickups you can balance the output of individual strings so that none is too loud or quiet as you play across them. That's a great advantage.
Find out how to do it well. Check it out…
If you ever need to remove certain Ovation preamps, you might find yourself scratching your head as you look for the fixings/mountings. The first time I encountered one, it took a little thought so I'll pop this quick tip up in case it helps others.
The OP-24 preamps actually hide their screws underneath a stuck-on plastic sheet with the control legend printed on it.
Get a sharp knife and run it along the edges of the front panel, inside the bezel.
You should be able to pry up the left and right ends to reveal two screws either side. Be careful not the ‘fold’ or kink the plastic as you remove the screws.
Do what you gotta do and, after reinstalling, the panel cover will stick back down itself if you’re lucky, or might need a little contact adhesive if you’re not.
Keeping your guitar or bass clean is important. Now there are those of you out there who don’t care too much about how your guitar looks (and that’s cool if it’s your thing) but that’s not what I’m talking about.
I’m talking about actually keeping your guitar working.
We’ll leave the wood and finish to another day and consider your guitar’s hardware right now. You might be surprised by how many instruments I see where the hardware is utterly wrecked, inoperable and—sometimes—fit only for the scrapheap.
Your sweat is a guitar killer. Not to judge, mine is too. Over time, it eats into metal.
Given time, the acids and salt in anybody’s sweat will corrode through any metal bit of your guitar it can reach. Some people’s sweat is more acidic than others and will do the job much more quickly.
These images show what a little sweat and a little time can do to the screws in your guitar. Once they get to this point, it’s pot-luck if they’ll screw out for replacing. Odds are pretty good that it’ll be impossible to get a grip or that the head will simply shear off when turned. This latter usually means the shaft has to be drilled out and that’s no fun.
Bridges are under a player’s hand almost all the time and they take quite a beating from sweat corrosion. The most frequent issues are siezed saddle-height screws and intonation screws on Fender-style bridges.
It’s sometimes possible to save your original saddles and free-up the screws but don’t rely on it. An old Dan Erlewine trick involves soaking the parts in a cleaning solution of 3 parts naptha or lighter fluid and one part light oil (think Three-In-One or similar). This can sometimes free up siezed screws.
Remove the hardware from the guitar first and. if possible without damaging parts further, use a wire brush to brush off any loose crud. For particiularly nasty gunking, I’ll sometimes heat the parts a little before soaking them (NOT red-hot, of course).
A very serious word of caution at this: Naptha/Lighter Fluid is (obviously) massively flammable. It’s also very unpleasant to breathe. You don’t want it on your skin and you certainly don’t want it in your eyes. If you’re going to try this, take proper precautions. Wear gloves and goggles. Work outside to avoid fumes. BE CAREFUL. This stuff is dangerous—treat it as such.
After a day’s soaking, carefully dry the parts (and carefully dispose of the rags you use—they’re now flammable too). If you’re lucky, the screws will be free to move.
If your pole-pieces or screws begin to corrode, that corrosion can carry on, eating its way down into the innards of your pickup. Once your coil wire (and its insulating coat) begins corroding it's re-wind or replace.
I’m guessing you want your guitar to last a while before you have to scrap it or buy new hardware.
I’m also guessing you’re dreading the advice to carefully clean every part of your guitar after every use.
Well, that’s obviously the best thing to do. However, let’s be practical—that’s not what you, or anyone, really wants to do. So, I’ll suggest the following steps as a compromise.
Save a guitar and save a repair guy from thinking, “Eeeewwwwwww!” ;-)