guitar repair

Haze Guitars on YouTube

Thanks to the Byzantine bureaucracy of Google, it was necessary to move the Haze Guitars YouTube channel.  I'm really sorry if you'd already subscribed. I've re-uploaded some stuff but I've lost my stats and the like which sucks a little. At least it should now be done and dusted for ever (or until we all get fitted with our Google brain implant).

hope to be uploading some more videos as time rolls on so it'd be great if you could pop over and subscribe (or re-subscribe). 

Here you go: Haze Guitars on YouTube

Cheers everyone.  


Where You At?


I've updated my map and the Find Us page on my site to make it even easier to find Haze Guitars. The new map allows you to more easily find your way, especially from locations outside Dublin (I'm guilty of having been a little Dublin-centric on the old map). New bus route information is included and there are map coordinates that you can plug in your GPS or smart phone.

What an age we live in.

As it turns out, this is pretty timely. For some reason, Bing Maps has recently changed and is now mislabelling roads at my location. I've no idea why this might be; they used to be fine. Open Street Map and Google Maps are still correct, by the way. Apple Maps on the iPhone is fine too.

If you're using Bing , please be careful. My address is Rossberry Avenue but, at the time of writing, that road is displayed on the map as Rossberry Park.

If you want to do the sat-nav thing, the coordinates are below. Different devices require different formats (DMS or DD) so both are listed.

Degrees, Minutes, Seconds (DMS):

  • Latitude 53 20 21 (North)
  • Longitude -6 26 14 (West)

Decimal Degrees (DD):

  • 53.339114, -6.437398

Or just use address, 54 Rossberry Avenue, Lucan. Do remember to drop me a line to sort an appointment first, though.

Haze Guitars Map

Haze Guitars Map

Haze Guitars Christmas Opening 2011

HazeGuitarsChristmasWell, I wish it could be Christmas every day. Not really, obviously—my liver would never take it and I'd be ridden with gout but, once a year works pretty well. So, as I prepare to put my internal organs through a gruelling, endurance test of alcohol and rich foods, I should probably let you know when I'll be available over the season of excess and family arguments.

Haze Guitars will be closed from December 23rd to January 3rd.

I'll be checking in on emails from time to time during this period, though, so you should feel free to drop me a line if you like.

As has become customary at this time of year, I'd like to say thank you to those of you who've entrusted me with your beloved instruments over the last twelve months. I genuinely appreciate it and I hope I've been able to help you out.

In the new year, I'll be hitting the ground running with the Super Setup Sale (more in a while) and, if last year is anything to go by, that should certainly help shift those Christmas pudding inches on my midriff.

In the meantime, however, I'll just wish you all a splendid Christmas. Hopefully Santa will pop some geeky, guitary stuff in your stocking.

Thanks, everyone. Have a great Christmas.

Broken Necked SG Gets Strapped

Gibson SG broken neck

Gibson SG broken neck

Nobody likes to see this. It's the headstock of a Gibson SG and, as you can see, it's broken. Ouch. Something slightly unusual about this is that this guitar suffered a headstock break while still in its case. This is unusual but not unheard of. I've seen a few in my time (and I mention it in my general article about Broken Necks). It's a real pain to hear this but even a good case might not protect your guitar in all circumstances. If you want to be even more safe, you can slacken off the strings before you pop your guitar in its case. Not the most practical solution but it is what it is.

Anyway, we've looked at headstock breaks before but I wanted to show you some unusual clamping arrangements on this one.

Hide Glue Guitar Headstock Repairs
Compression Strap Clamping for Guitar Repair

First off, let's get the glue pot heating up. I'll often use hot hide glue for repairs. If you use it correctly, it's very strong and creep-resistant. I like the 'traditionalist' vibe of it too. Depending on the repair, it can be particularly suitable too (as it was in this case).

And the next photo—whoa, what's going on here?

We've looked at various clamping methods before and discussed making custom cauls and whatnot. Sometimes though, headstock breaks can be very soundly and securely clamped by the clever application of ratchet compression straps.

"Are you mental?" I hear you cry.

Nope. If the neck crack is held on by the headstock veneer and, if it mates cleanly and securely, it can often be easier to use this method of getting the break back together. The strap is secured at either end—around the strap-button and through the tuner holes and it can apply a strong, directional pull to keep the break together for glueing.

Inventive Clamping for headstock repairs
Ratchet strap clamping for repair

The block of wood I've used at the front of the headstock just protects it. Likewise, the cork padding on the rear of the body. Once the glue has been applied where it's needed, tightening the ratchet applies the pressure that pulls the cracked headstock together again. There's plenty of force—in fact you could probably pull the headstock off completely if you over-tightened.

Let the glue cure and clean up the excess with some hot water and a rag (another great advantage of hide glue) and it's done.

This guitar will be making another appearance soon. Stay tuned.

Incidentally, I didn't invent this clamping method (more's the pity). Years ago, Stewart MacDonald's catalogue used to include occasional tips from guitar techs and luthiers. I read this there and have been thankful for it plenty of times since.

Shiny New Look at Haze Guitars

Guitar Repair Dublin - Haze Guitars

Guitar Repair Dublin - Haze Guitars

So what do you think? I've whittled and carved and hammered and sawn my way through a complete web site update. I reckon it looks quite snazzy. I think things should be pretty stable and solid around here but if you notice anything odd over the next few days, I'd appreciate it if you could drop me a line.

Other than the new coat of paint, I've managed to get a few more images of some of the custom instruments I've made. I've been a bit remiss, in the past, about keeping photographs of my guitars and basses but have managed to pull a few together for your viewing pleasure. I'll be more careful about this in the future and will try to get some more images of older instruments too.

I've also enabled comments on these blog posts—the future is interactive, I understand. Do feel free to pipe up with questions, thoughts and whatnot. At the moment, as this site is for my business, I'm moderating comments. We'll see how we get on.

You'll also notice some sharing links down the bottom. If you used them to tell your friends all about the shininess here at Haze, that'd be great.

I hope you like the new look.

Heel Repairs

This is the heel of an Ovation. Well, it was anyway. A bit of a tumble had left the neck dangling from the strings while the heel portion remained solidly bolted into the neck-block.

Strong bolts, at least.

This is a pretty straightforward repair. Plenty of glueing surface should make for a strong joint and the break along the grain is extremely clean and easy to reassemble.

That said, I'm playing it carefully on this one. I've seen a number of Ovations break in this location so I've decided to strengthen this joint when it's glued up.

First, though, it's necessary to glue it. The only difficult part of this repair is ensuring a good clamping pressure while the glue cures. The ovation heel is angled which makes it a little more challenging to clamp it down.  As luck would have it, my previous experience with Ovation neck-heel breaks has left me with a custom-made clamping caul for just such an occasion.

Pop a fingerboard caul underneath, glue it up and I'm ready to clamp away. The clean break nicely aligns itself and doesn't require any lateral clamping to stop it slipping about.

After the glue dries properly, I'll reinforce this break a little by drilling a narrow hole—from the inside of the heel either side of the tenon—deep enough to go through the repair into 'good' wood. I'll epoxy a couple of thin steel shafts into the holes to provide extra strength to the repair. The shafts are pretty small and thin but they're strong. They should help make sure this neck never breaks in this spot again.

A bit of a finish touch up and this Ovation lives to fight again.

What To Do If You Break Your Guitar's Neck

I've written a little about specific headstock repairs and it occurred to me that might be a good idea to give you an overview with some tips  and considerations on how to prevent broken necks and what to do if the worst happens.  It's a little long but could well prove useful to know…

The worst thing in the world?

You're finished the gig and you're enjoying a well-earned beer at the bar. You're careful to keep an eye on your pride and joy, propped up against your amp on stage, to make sure nobody swipes it. It's safe though, the drummer's up there packing up his gear.

Wait! The drummer's knocked against your amp with his fat arse*. Your guitar tips, slowly, very slowly, it's going, it's going… And it's gone. It hits the ground and the headstock keeps going. You can hear the crack over the noise of the crowd.

Is there anything worse?

Of course there is, but for a guitarist this is one of life's grimmer moments. A broken neck. You fall to your knees, hands imploring the heavens, and bellow, "Noooooooooo!" The security guy eyes you suspiciously.

Why? Why? For Clapton's sake, why?


How could this have happened? Well, you could possibly go so far as to call it a design flaw. On any guitar with an angled-back headstock, the area where it angles is naturally weak. This is because of a number of factors but primarily to do with the timber's grain direction and the fact that the area is pretty thin - the thinnest part of the neck. Add to this the fact that many instruments have a truss-rod access channel here, effectively removing even more wood from an already weak area, and you have a recipe for breaks.

The image on the left shows a Les Paul neck/headstock. I've added a dotted line to indicate, approximately, the depth that the truss-rod access cavity is cut. You can see there's not a lot left.

Many guitar makers try to alleviate the potential for trouble in this area with a variety of means; multi-ply 'sandwich' necks, truss rod-access moved elsewhere or reduced, scarfed headstocks, and the most common, a volute. A volute is simply a shaped/carved 'bulge' that's left in the weak area to strengthen it (although it might be more accurate to say 'not to weaken it').

Gibson are frequent stop-outs on this though. Although a volute was introduced on many Gibsons in the late '60s, it was phased out again and it's appearance on modern Gibsons is hit-or-miss. Most don't have one. Indeed, while all instruments with angled headstocks have breakage potential, Gibsons (SGs and Les Pauls in particular) top the charts in the headstock repairs I perform. If Gibson ever start strengthening this area, guitar repair guys all over the world are going to see their incomes drop.

My guitar neck is broken. What do I do?

If you do manage to break or crack your guitar's neck or peghead, don't panic. Almost anything is repairable. Here are the immediate steps to take.

  1. If the headstock is still attached to the neck (the headstock veneer often keeps it attached), gently - very, very gently - slacken off the strings. Pop it in it's case and get yourself to a good repair guy.
  2. If the headstock is just cracked, do the same - slacken off and get it repaired.
  3. If the headstock is completely detached, carefully wrap it up in something (a bag, newspaper, etc.) and try not to knock, damage or disturb those jagged splinters of wood poking out.
  4. Don't try to fit the headstock back to the neck as the joint should usually be examined and cleared of any misaligned splinters or loose timber before this is attempted.
  5. Check for any splinters that have come loose and if you find any, pop them in a bag - they'll help complete the jigsaw and assist in getting a good, clean repair.

Repairing a broken guitar neck

The first repair is the important one. If it's not done well, then you've got a reasonable chance of the guitar breaking along that fault again. Sometimes string tension alone can be enough to pull a badly repaired break apart. And, repairing along a previous repair is much more difficult, time-consuming and often more invasive. Not to mention more expensive.

The lesson? Don't break your guitar neck but, if you do, get it repaired properly first time around.

Talk to your repair guy and ask him/her to discuss the repair. A good repair guy will be happy to chat about their plans. What glue will be used is important for example. For most repairs either hot hide glue or aliphatic resin is the right choice. If your repair-guy decides immediately to slap in a load of epoxy, you might want to ask them why. While epoxy certainly has a place in headstock repair, it's generally a limited one. Epoxy is incredibly strong if used properly but its nature makes it difficult to penetrate cracks and it's not usually a first choice adhesive for most of these jobs.


The majority of broken necks tend to be relatively straightforward. Some, however, require a bit more effort. 'Short' breaks across the neck or the headstock that allow very little 'glueing' surface will often need to be reinforced. Reinforcement may involve glueing in new pieces of wood, called splines, that extend beyond the break and provide additional strength.

Other reinforcement methods include the use of 'overlays'. A back-strap or front-strap overlay is a veneer of wood that gets glued on to the back or front of the headstock and will often extend down into the neck area (as shown in the diagram). It's necessary to remove existing wood from these areas to fit the overlay and the newly-glued overlays must be drilled for tuners and so on. Refinishing the area is also necessary. Overlays take a lot of work but can often be a relatively discrete way of reinforcing a break.

This sort of reinforcement is often necessary for repairing previously-repaired breaks (i.e. second repairs) too, as it's often not possible to get a clean joint on on a break that's been glued before - that's why it's important to get it right first time.

Prevention is better than cure.

Almost all headstock cracks and breaks are caused by the instrument falling. If everyone put their guitars into their cases after they were finished playing or gigging, I'd be able to afford less beer every month.

Cases are not a guarantee - I've seen a headstock break after a fall in a case - but they certainly get you most of the way there. A good-fitting, hard case will protect your guitar from most things. If you wanted to be a bit anally-retentive about it, you could slacken the strings off before stowing your guitar but that's probably overkill for most people (although you should definitely do so if you ever have to ship your guitar anywhere).

If it's too much of a pain to put your guitar away, get a decent stand or locking hanger. There are even hangers that can attach to your amp combo or cabinet now. Stands and hangers obviously won't give you the same protection as a hard case but they're better than just leaning your guitar against your amp (no matter how cool that might look).

The upshot

Protect your guitar and you might never have to get its neck repaired. If the worst happens though, don't panic - things can be put right again. Make sure you trust whoever is repairing the broken neck though - the only thing worse than having to get your neck repaired is having to get it done twice.

If you've any questions, feel free to drop me a line. I'll do my best to answer them.

*With apologies to drummers everywhere - I'm a bad person, going for the easy laughs. ;-)